My First Backpacking Trip: The Siam Reap Leg

My first taste of backpacking was a good six years ago, when budget airlines were still cheap, and didn’t have to book a year in advance to score a good deal. Looking back, six years is a pretty long time ago, longer than my stay at university, and almost as long as I’ve been working. Anyway, any budding young traveler living on this side of the world went to the path of least resistance – if resistance was time and money – and go around South East Asia on a shoestring budget. I remember that trip clearly, (most of it, the blurry parts included a beach and a full moon); it started with a Coldplay concert, and ended with beaches.

For this blog post, I’ll stick to the Cambodia leg, where I dropped in Siam Reap to visit Angelina Jolie. No, the movie shooting was done three years before I got in the Angkor Wat complex, oh well. Besides, when I got into Ta Prohm, it was being over run by 8 buses of Japanese tourists and another 6 buses of Korean visitors that I felt like I was in a mallwide sale.

Warning – the Angkor complex is huge. I’d recommend biking it, but not on the first day. It’s better to let you tuk-tuk driver pick you up at 4am, head on out to sunrise ridge and mill around when the sun is not at its harshest. Pick up the 3-day travel pass for a reasonable visit to the temples, but if you’re keen on travelling slow, there’s a 7-day option for you. Getting a day ticket might be too expensive and too hurried to appreciate the ruins inside.

My personal favorite is the Bayon – a temple with numerous faces consistently done with the Khmer architecture style. Wall-to-wall faces are creepy, but the serenity expressed on the stone faces kind of makes up for it.

There is of course Angkor Wat – the largest Hindu temple in the world which greets you at the entrance. Careful, the steps are steep heading to the main spire. Not much to say as travel writers have probably over exclaimed their adulation for the temple, including the very famous reflection-upon-the-waters photo. Instead of sharing with you that photo you’ve seen everywhere, here’s a one of its replica within Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaeo.

 However, if you’ve got a bit of time to explore the adjoining areas, I would like to recommend Banteay Srei – a temple devoted to Shiva. Of note is the reddish hues of the building, and more impressively, the carvings adorning the walls, columns, and balustrades. It’s a good 40 minute ride to the ruins, but well worth the journey.

I wrote about the experience in SR in my other, older blog, and it’s funny what I remembered then – Bussing out of Cambodia. My only excuse is that it was six years ago.

Lisbon’s Modern Side

Simply showing my sheer ignorance of a majestically beautiful country, I was plenty surprised that Lisbon has gone through a major renaissance the last decade (well before their recent economic woes). The eastern board of the city has opened the continent’s longest bridge, and a commissioned area to host the World Exposition in 1998. Unlike most purposely-built areas, Lisbon has capitalised on developing the venue with residential, commercial and public spaces opening recently. The whole complex includes an aquarium, the Vasco do Gama mall, an international convention centre, and the Placa do Nacoes.

Its main centrepiece is its terminus train station, Gare do Oriente. Finally, an introduction to Santiago Calatrava! After much praise for his light, airy and modern designs all over, I finally got to see his work in the flesh, so to speak. At first, I thought that the platform canopies were inspired by spider webs, only to realise that they are patterned after the cloister ceilings west of the city (Belem).

Its space travel theme resonates across the station – from the shape of their waiting rooms, to the underground walkway connection the platforms, to the “beam me up, Scotty” elevators around the station. Furthermore impressive was the selection of materials for the building – simple glass, and brushed concrete. The photo below turned out much better than expected, it looks like an artist’s rendition of the interior, even if it is an actual photograph.

You may have noticed Portugal’s love for the blue-coloured tiles, called azulejos, and how they decorate their buildings with it. This affinity extends not just for the colour blue, as they decorate majority of the metro stations with tiles, though on a more playful note.

Finally, end the tour of the city’s modern side by dropping by Bairro Alto – a district known for its parties; between traditional pubs that feature melancholy singers belting their fado, you can find trendy spots to drink in. Here’s a photo of one we stumbled upon; apart from the standard drinks and requisite caipirinhas, it was delightful to discover a new mix: black vodka, crushed strawberries. Please let me know where to find this black vodka, it would be so interesting.

Night Time Strolling in Seoul

Seoul is a fairly safe city that buzzes alive at night from all the neon lights wrapping the city. Here is a recommended route to stroll around the city, from the city center stream to the shopping district.

Start the walk from Jongno 5-ga station and head a couple of block south to reach Cheonggyecheon - Seoul’s testament to enervate the city by going ‘green’. Also used by Seoul’s former mayor Lee Myung-Bak as a vehicle to capture the interest of Korean initiative to push forward the country’s environmental agenda and urban renewal – they demolished an elevated motorway in the middle of the city to give precedence to restoring the stream. Lee received much criticism then, but was lauded afterwards for such brave efforts. It is now one of Seoul’s major landmarks and highlights.

After reaching point B on the map, walk slightly north to view Dongdaemun gate, one of the remaining fortress-gates to ancient Seoul that is fully intact (Namdaemun in the west was damaged in a fire last 2008 and is currently being restored).

Just south of the gate is a massive construction site for Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza and Park. It was meant to be completed in early 2010 in line with Seoul being awarded as World Design Capital. Instead, the park is not set for completion by end 2011. It may look like an inverted shoe, or an alien embryo (not that I know what an alien embryo should look like), but I think it’s pretty funky the way the park will turn out. My only photo is from the construction site, so click on this link to get a better visual of the architect’s vision.

Finally, you’ll be spoiled for choice at Dongdaemun’s Fashion district, with floors and malls of shopping area. There are many arcades and stalls selling mostly clothes at the shops, so what a better way to end the evening stroll. My personal suggestion will still be jumping into Dragonhill Spa, a jimjilbang (truly an authentic Korean experience! try sleeping on a block of wood as a pillow!) to reward yourself with a walking tour well done.

Pocket Itinerary: Seoul’s Palaces and Temples

It’s always amazing to how centuries’ worth of history is melded into a technology advanced city. Seoul is an excellent example this. Despite heavily hinged on technology (hailed as the world’s most connected city by means of the internet), its traditional roots are never forgotten as evidenced by its numerous Confucian and royal temples scattered around the city.

My personal favourite is Gyeongbokgung Palace, located at the northwest section of the city – an expansive complex set against a mountain backdrop and facing the city’s modern skyline. Try accessing it from the Gyeongbokgung subway station, and admire the subway art on the way to the palace grounds. Like most palaces and fortifications, there is an elaborate showcase of the changing of the guards, make sure to see the parade of colours and drum beating. There are two daily, check local times for a more accurate schedule.

Across Gyeongbukgung palace you will find a memorial to King Sejeon, South Korea’s most admired person, and also the creator of the national language, Hanggul. There’s an underground museum right below the roadways that details the life and achievements of King Sejeon, and a language institute. There’s a film on how their language came about, and a scientific process on how to learn Korean. It’s not as difficult as you think, and you can learn to read the signs in Korean in as little as 45 minutes.

Jongmyo shrine is regarded as the most sacred grounds for Korea – though the palace grounds are open to the public (only by guided tours, and at designated times), most of the buildings are off limits. It contains the spirit tablets of the royal family and their ancestors, hence the increased reverence and seclusion (and World Heritage Site status). A short walk from Jongmyo shrine through touristy Insadong Street (pick up your souvenirs here) will lead you to Jogyesa.

Finally, a hidden shrine at the south section of the city behind COEX Mall is Bongeunsa Temple. It’s particularly beautiful in the spring where the place is decked with lanterns to celebrate Buddha’s birthday. Its hillside location also provides great views of the city. Best to visit this at night and see Seoul all aglow from the lights.

Lisbon’s Manueline Architecture

On the west end of the city lies the sprawling buildings that creates the distinctive Portuguese touch to the decor – Manueline Architecture. I was wondering why I haven’t heard of this type of architecture, and I cite two main reasons: the style was limited to Portugal and its colonies; and it lasted a relatively short time (approximately 30 years). I couldn’t find the words to describe it, but Wikipedia captures the essence perfectly as “sumptuous…bridging Gothic and Renaissance.”

Providing inspiration to Calatrava for his train station, the monastic cloisters at Sao Jeronimos is definitely worth a visit. You might find the elaborately designed crypt of Vasco do Gama very interesting as well.

Just outside the garden plaza is a monument to commemorate the golden age of discovery of the 16^th century as led by the Portuguese; you may remember a certain Ferdão do Magalhães (that’s Ferdinand Magellan to us) that ‘discovered’ us in 1521. At the end of the river promenade is the Torre de Belem, a watchtower that initially was at the middle of the mouth of the Rio Tejo, but has now been integrated with the rest of its northern flank. Climb the dizzying and narrow spiral staircase to have a sweeping view of the river and the 19 de Abril bridge. On Sundays and holidays, the €5 entrance fee is waived until 2pm (unfortunately, I took at a photo at the entrance of the tower, delaying me by a minute – d’oh!).

Finally, to recharge your weary bones, conclude the trip with a visit to Pasteis de Belem, a world-famous bakery selling Portuguese tarts. The custard-filled tarts are a well-kept secret (only 3 people know it, I heard), but reputation of the bakery isn’t – queues all the way around the next block are not uncommon. Whilst waiting for a table you can walk around the restaurant at marvel at the azulejo-filled walls depicting the history of the famous Portuguese sweets. Just a note of difference the tarts’ crusts are crispy, instead of the crumbly Macau versions I am used to.

Eating in Korea

Said it before, and I’ll say it again – Asian cuisine is tops. From the intricate kaiseki ryori of Japan, to the vibrant colours of Indian curries and the flaming spices in Thailand, nothing beats the dazzling variety of cuisine available in the region. Korean cuisine is no let down in this department either – from steaming stews to sizzling barbecues to lovely mung bean pancakes, there’s something for everyone.  Don’t worry, not everything in Korea is covered in that red bean paste.

Not everything is coated in the red bean paste. Almost...

First things first: Korean barbecue!!! There’s a lot of things you can roast in Korean restaurants, whether over flames or hot coals. Strips of beef, chicken, or pork,  covered in salt, teriyaki sauce, or soy sauce; together with roasted garlic, leaves of lettuce and the ubiquitous kimchi. My favourite part of the Korean eating regimen is that appetisers are free. You only need order the mains and stews (and rice and drinks), they will provide you with free appetiser of various vegetables and small bites. A special shout out to ordering samgyeupsal – pork belly flavoured with sesame oil and salt, thinly sliced like bacon.

The best part about is that they're all free!

DIY cooking at its finest.

A bibimbap is regional specialty of Jeonju, but still found every across the country. It’s a bowl of up to 28 garnishings (ground beef, egg, carrots, corn, spinach, etc) on top of rice to enjoy. A special version is the dolsot bibimbap where it is served in a stone bowl, and the bottom turns out nice and crispy. This is a very colourful affair with shades of yellow, green, white, brown, and of course that red paste.  According to Confucian philosophy, a full meal must contain the essential five colours to be a complete meal.

A Jeonju specialty, but found all over Korea.

Dolsot Bibimbap! Crrrunchy

Finish it all off with a swig of soju, and excellent mix with fruity drinks and the like. For a more authentic Korean experience, toast on bowls of makgeolli, that milky-white drink that’s a fermentation of rice that tastes like and alcoholic 7-Up (careful on the drink, it normally ranges between 10-15% alcohol) . Make sure that the bottle is well shaken as sedimentation is normal for the drink.

As with most Asian cultures, eating is a communal affair, food meant to be shared, so if travelling alone, do not be surprised if the restaurant owner turns you away if you’re a solo eater. Also, it is expected to order food (anju) when drinking soju or makgeolli in a bar.

Makgeolli, ten times better than soju!

As a final dare, try the local sausages called sundae (pronounced soon-dey, not the creamy variety). It’s filled with rice noodles, and it’s coloured black…get your soju ready.

Sundae, pronounced soon-dey!

To Lisbon, So Many Surprises Await You!

Portugal was never on the travel list had I not met great people on my Japan trip in 2010. So taking up the invite to visit the country, I used the long weekend to pop in Portugal and see what the country had to offer.
Taking its cues from Europe’s great capitals, getting lost in Lisbon’s Alfama district is never boring. Hiding behind the winding cobblestone streets is a magnificent facade of apartments in pastel-washed colours, romantic balconies decorated by blue-hued tiles (called azulejos), and wafts of their custard-sweet pastries. The streets alone are a reason to visit this amazing capital.

Be warned though, Lisbon is the city of 7 hills, and trekking up these streets can get steep and tiring. There are funiculars around the area (reminiscent of the tram heading to Victoria Peak in Hong Kong); alternatively, you can take the trams that follow these winding streets and start your journey walking down.

Start with Castelo do Sao Jorge, a medieval fortress on top of the hills, to take hold of your bearings – you can see the Praca do Comercio below and the adjacent riverside walk of the Rio Tejo. There are plenty of churches scattered along the walk, I really don’t remember all of them – but watch out for the distinct Manueline architecture of the monuments, statues, and plazas around (more on this later).

There are two bridges connect the two flanks of the Rio Tejo – each having their own merits. Vasco do Gama bridge, on the eastern part of town, is the longest bridge in Europe, while the 19 de Abril bridge, with its red colour is designed by the same guy who did San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge.

The city is not filled with the world’s most familiar landmarks, but make no mistake – the experience of walking around Lisbon does not need blockbuster sights to put it on your must travel lists.

Beach Hopping around Sydney Suburbs

What’s a trip to Sydney without heading over to the beach? The classic Sydney itinerary would point you to Manly beach or Bondi. I’d recommend turning that trip to Bondi Beach into a walking tour – starting from Coogee beach.

 Coogee lies south east of the city center and public buses are frequent.  Once you get to Coogee Beach, instead of lazing on a shore lapping up the sun, take a bit of walking first – marvelous rocky cliffs, hillside communities and seaside houses from the more affluent side of Sydney. The walk takes about an hour and a half, but you hardly notice with the stunning views around you.

If you get the timing right, you get to see some quirky and amazing art installations from Sculpture by the Sea (held every November) along the way. You can also check out the seaside hotel on the way, with its pool. But with a free beach right at your feet, why bother?

 

Don’t forget the Australian adage going for Slip Slop Slap! I got a pretty intense sunburn on a cloudy day. Bring a book if you’re keen on beach bumming and working on that tan, but if you want to go surfing, there are rentals for lockers and surf gear scattered along Bondi beach so that you don’t miss out on any of the summer fun the city has on deck. Also at the northern edge of Bondi, you can see cleverly put together mosaics at the children’s pool.

Swinging Sydney in your Pocket

First a disclaimer – I didn’t go to Sydney on a business trip. It was my two vacations for that year combined and the plan was to travel Australia.  Sydney was my first stop; missed out on New Year’s Eve celebrations (used up my all my holidays before January ended!), but just in time for Sydney festival. It’s September and summer is approaching the country’s party capital, so here are some easy tips to cover a lot of Aussie ground in a short span of time.

Sydney is the ostentatious cousin of Melbourne, as it has got more of the famous and well-known sights the country has to offer. Of course there is the much ballyhooed (10 years of construction delays) Sydney Opera house by Danish architect Jorn Utzon. But upon seeing the expansively complex structure it sure is bound to take the wind out of the sails of its critics. Right across the opera house is the Harbour Bridge where they have tours take make you climb all the way up one of the bridge towers. It’s pretty expensive, and takes about two hours. I think I’ll take the view from down here, thank you very much.

It is almost summer there, so take a good walk along Darling Harbour, relax your feet in one of their pools, or cross on over Pyrmont Bridge, a pedestrian bridge with a monorail built above it. If you get the timing right, you can watch the bridge swing – it’s the first swing bridge  to be powered by electricity. I didn’t get to see it turn, but the control tower is photographed below.

Cap off your day with a good view of the city from its many harbours, then head over to The Rocks for a drink in Sydney’s oldest precinct.

Architecture Walk in Berlin – Old and New

Berlin, as they say, has something for everyone. There will be grand museums, quaint neighbourhoods, a sizzling nightlife, a zoo at the heart of the city, and even a raunchy yet accessible underbelly. As with most my visits, I try to take in the diversity of architecture that the city had to offer. The contrasting views of nouveau architecture sitting side by side with well-aged residences and stately apartments are a marvel on their own. Lord Norman Foster added his usual steel-and-glass touches at the top of the reconstructed Reichstag, home of the German Parliament. Admission is free, but the lines were terrible so I had to settle for the grounds around it. To make the most out of my visit, I went to see the annex buildings around it, including Marie Elisabeth Luders Haus, pictured above.

Totally missing where the Holocaust Memorial was, I made a beeline for the Daniel Libeskind creation at the northern part of the city. The Jewish Museum Berlin is a testament to the man’s signature angles and jagged silhouettes, the whole 4 storey museum is shaped like a lightning bolt itself.

The theme of the museum is an emotional one, and is reflected into physical discomfort by the sloping floors that simulate movement up a ramp and uneven surfaces. The museum itself is fairly extensive and could easily take up 3 hours, so try to be selective in what you want to experience. Don’t forget to visit the slanting courtyard outdoors.

If you’re looking for a wee bit more traditional fare, try visiting the Berlin Cathedral – it will greet you to Museum Island and spend a whole day roaming the complex alone. If you’re just here to visit iconic Berlin, walk along the Unter der Linden (translated as under the linden trees) towards Pariser Platz and see the much loved Brandenburg Gate. Have a photo taken with a bear (the city mascot as seen in its coat of arms), or with an imposing military guy. I had mine taken with Darth Vader. And the Holocaust Museum I missed? It was just around the corner from the Brandenburg Gate so don’t make the same mistake I did.

It’s possible to do all of these in a day, but you may have to rush some things. My suggestion is to take walk around Bundestag, then Brandenburg Gate is adjacent to it, and spend the rest of the day at Museum Island. The Jewish Museum closes late, so you can do that at the early evenings. Enjoy Berlin!